In Pursuit of Whiskies That Inspire the Soul: Crafting Whisky with a Vision for 20 Years Ahead.Jota Tanaka / Master Blender, Kirin Brewery Company, Limited
‘Kirin’s DNA’: A Series Exploring the Footsteps of Longtime Kirin Employees and Uncovering Their Professional Ethos.
Master Blender, Jota Tanaka.
The exquisite style of Kirin Whisky “Fuji Sanroku” brought him widespread recognition. The Kirin Japanese Whisky Fuji and Kirin Whisky Riku, on which he also serves as Master Blender, have received high acclaim both domestically and internationally. He is currently focused on expanding the global presence of the flagship, Kirin Japanese Whisky Fuji.
Thrown unexpectedly into the world of wine and spirits with no prior experience, he faced many challenges, especially in the pre-dawn days of whisky, when he sometimes struggled to gain understanding. Nevertheless, his steadfast belief in whisky’s potential drove him to break new ground. Today, he embraces a mission to ignite the fire in people’s hearts, sharing his skills and passion both within and beyond the company. He proudly considers himself one of the evangelists spreading the unique allure of Japanese whisky to the world. We had the privilege of hearing his inspiring story at Fuji Gotemba Distillery, the home of Kirin’s exceptional whisky.
Jota Tanaka
Master Blender, Executive Fellow, Kirin Brewery Co., Ltd.
Born in 1962 and from Kyoto, he joined Kirin Brewery Co., Ltd., in 1988. From 1989, he spent three years working in winemaking at a winery in Napa Valley, then completed a master's degree at the University of California, Davis. He returned to Japan in 1995 and worked at Kirin-Seagram Co., Ltd. (now Kirin Distillery Co., Ltd.) handling wine and spirits. In 2002, he went back to the US and was involved in Bourbon whiskey-making and product development at Four Roses Distillery in Kentucky. After returning to Japan in 2009, he served as a blender at the Kirin Brewery Product Development Research Institute, becoming Chief Blender in 2010 and Master Blender in 2017. In 2017, he received the "Master Distiller/Master Blender of the Year" award at the global Icons of Whisky (IOW) Awards hosted by Whisky Magazine. In 2022, he was inducted into the Whisky Magazine's "Hall of Fame"—becoming the fourth Japanese to receive this honor.
Contents
- Driven by a Single Dream to Work Abroad: Joining Kirin Brewery
- The Cultural Importance of Alcoholic Beverages: Lessons Learned from Wine
- Embracing the Spirit of Fellow Distillers in the United States
- A Decade of Transformation: The Value Creation Roadmap That Changed Our Company
- Igniting the Heart with a Vision: In Pursuit of Whiskies That Inspire the Soul
Driven by a Single Dream to Work Abroad: Joining Kirin Brewery
Born and raised in Kyoto, specifically in Fushimi—a region renowned for its sake breweries—I have vivid memories of the rich, inviting aroma of sake brewing just across from my family home. As a high school student, I even had the unique opportunity to enter a koji room for my science project, where I observed and documented the fascinating process of sake brewing. Influenced by my father’s warning about future food shortages, I was drawn to agricultural sciences, which led me to major in applied microbiology at Hokkaido University. Looking back now, it’s clear that from a very young age, I was immersed in the captivating world of fermentation.
During my time at university, I traveled alone across the United States as a backpacker, which only strengthened my desire to work abroad someday. Believing that opportunity might come my way, I joined Kirin Brewery Company in 1988. I have worked at Kirin for 36 years, and back then I never imagined I would one day end up making whisky. The turning point came just six months after joining; when I was assigned to the production management department, the manager told me, “In six months, you’ll be heading to a winery in Napa Valley.” At the time, I barely knew anything about wine— All I knew was that there were two types of wine, red and white!
During my initial training period right after joining the company, I had several opportunities to give brief three-minute presentations about my experiences and future aspirations. I shared stories from my solo trip across the United States and expressed my strong desire to work overseas. It was only later that I learned the then-head of the training center remembered my presentation and recommended me for the assignment in Napa. Even now, I remain sincerely grateful for that incredible opportunity that genuinely changed the course of my career.
Just before heading to the Napa Valley winery, I visited the Fuji Gotemba Distillery and had the chance to meet the first master blender and the distillery manager. However, that remains my only memory related to whisky from that period. If I had been more aware of whisky back then, perhaps I would have seen the world of winemaking in a very different light. I recall thinking, “Kirin Brewery even has a distillery,” not realizing how fundamentally it would shape my career.
The Cultural Importance of Alcoholic Beverages: Lessons Learned from Wine
My time in Napa Valley left an indelible mark on my career and on my personal pursuits. Even today, I wear a favorite belt with a buckle shaped like a cluster of Chardonnay grapes—a distinctive design that symbolizes my deep connection to that formative experience. Whenever I introduce myself at international spirits industry events, I like to say with a smile, “I have wine and spirits flowing through my veins.” It’s a lighthearted way to express just how deeply this world has become a part of who I am.
Experiencing the world of wine opened my eyes to the cultural and artistic dimensions of alcoholic beverages, revealing that they are far more than mass-produced commodities — they are crafts born of agriculture and artistry.
In fact, I believe that only those genuinely passionate about these cultural aspects can truly create exceptional beverages. This insight has greatly influenced my whisky-making journey and helps explain why our whiskies are recognized internationally for their compelling concept and distinctive appeal—an effect rooted directly in my time at the Napa Valley winery.
When engaging with whisky enthusiasts and industry experts worldwide, the conversation often turns to how much story and added value a product carries. These discussions resonate strongly with what I learned and experienced through winemaking, reinforcing the indispensable role of storytelling in crafting spirits that genuinely resonate with people.
To share a slightly different perspective, when I hold seminars overseas about Kirin whisky, I always begin with the message: “FUJI is more than whisky. It can inspire and bring joy to your life.” At first, everyone looks puzzled, unsure of what it means. Yet by the end of the seminar, I’m often told, “Now I really understand, and I’m deeply moved.” That’s exactly the experience I set out to create.
For example, during tastings, we sometimes use a large bowl of wine glasses instead of traditional whisky tasting glasses or tumblers, allowing participants to discover how the glass’s shape and size dramatically influence the aroma and flavor—insights rooted in my experience with wine. It’s fascinating how looking at something from a different angle can open an entirely new world, but such experiences cannot be engineered or orchestrated; they arise from serendipity and chance encounters. My career path has been shaped by just such unpredictable moments, through struggles and perseverance, leading to where I am today.
Although my experience with wine is relatively brief compared to seasoned experts, studying and conducting research at University of California, Davis gave me the theoretical grounding that supports my hands on experience in winemaking. Thrust suddenly into the world of winemaking with no prior experience, I was utterly determined to learn everything despite not knowing where to begin. While working at a winery, I attended evening courses in enology at Napa Valley College. I eagerly reached out to renowned winemakers, making every effort to meet and learn from them.
During grape harvests, I earnestly asked to accompany these winemakers in the field, driven not by the thought of future gain but by an intense desire to make the most of my limited time and to absorb all I could from the finest artisans.
Immersing myself in yeast fermentation research at UC Davis and connecting with winemakers and researchers from around the world has also proven invaluable to my journey.
Embracing the Spirit of Fellow Distillers in the United States
After returning from California, I was assigned to the Product Development Group at Kirin-Seagram, where I was deeply involved in product development for wines and the launch of the ready-to-drink Hyoketsu® brand, while also gaining hands-on experience with whisky and other spirits. As a blender, I had the privilege of crafting blends for 『Evermore* 』
* a premium blended whisky made exclusively from malt and grain whiskies aged for at least 21 years, which has since been discontinued.
Around that time, I heard a thrilling rumor that Kirin Brewery had acquired the Four Roses Distillery in the United States and was seeking skilled technical staff to be sent on site. Recognizing this as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to contribute to a global brand, I eagerly stepped forward—and to my great fortune, was selected to relocate to the U.S. to embrace this exciting new chapter.
Spending seven years from 2002 at the Four Roses Distillery in Kentucky, immersed in Bourbon whiskey-making, left a lasting impact on my approach as a blender and added significant depth to my professional perspective. Those days were filled with the urgent demands of PMI (post-merger integration), and I threw myself into every challenge with relentless dedication. Yet amidst the intense workload, I took great pride in contributing to the development of new products for the Four Roses brand. This milestone not only affirmed my passion but also earned me the invaluable recognition and trust of both colleagues and customers, and strengthened my confidence as a craftsman.
Much of the hands-on experience and learning I took from that time remains a lasting treasure. Above all, it revealed to me the crucial role of passion in one’s vocation —how essential it is to tackle each endeavor with wholehearted enthusiasm and pride. Every day, I was inspired by the unwavering dedication and pride that the employees at the Four Roses Distillery showed toward their brand. Leading this passionate team was the legendary master distiller Jim Rutledge, often hailed as “Mr. Four Roses.”
What I found most rewarding was discovering the industry's abiding creed: the "Fellow Distillers" spirit — a deep kinship that unites whisky makers.
Calling others "competitors" makes them sound like enemies, and I’ve never liked that label.
In the international wine and spirits industry—whether in wine or whisky—the spirit of mutual support runs deep among fellow makers. Among everyone I’ve met in the whisky world, this philosophy was embodied most clearly by Jimmy Russell, the legendary master distiller of Wild Turkey. Shortly after I began working at the Four Roses Distillery, I was running a booth at a tasting event where, at the time, our recognition was limited, and foot traffic was sparse. Then, almost out of nowhere, people started showing up one after another — and when I asked, they all said, "Jimmy Russell sent me."
When I thanked Jimmy, he simply said, “It’s only natural to recommend something good. Instead of fighting over a slice of pizza, why not make the pizza bigger and share it with everyone? That way, everyone’s happy. We’re fellow distillers—let’s grow together.” Witnessing how he consistently embodied the spirit of “Fellow Distillers” in so many ways deeply moved me. Inspired by this enduring philosophy, I resolved to incorporate the same spirit myself, not just for Kirin, but to help elevate the entire Japanese whisky industry. With that heartfelt determination, I returned home.
A Decade of Transformation: The Value Creation Roadmap That Changed Our Company
Returning to Japan in 2009, I found the whisky industry at its lowest ebb—so much so that rumors swirled about Kirin Brewery withdrawing from the whisky business or merging with other companies. There was even a year when no whisky production was made because sales were so poor; the company understandably did not want to build up unsellable inventory. Whisky must always be crafted with the future in mind, so this situation was particularly frustrating. I knew that if things were to change, it would require me to take initiative and drive that change myself. A pivotal moment came when, as a blender, I was tasked with creating a production plan based on sales forecasts projected 20 years ahead. Without solid, evidence-based projections, it was impossible to convince management, and I was determined to spark a meaningful and forward-looking discussion about how we wanted to shape the future of the business. So, I envisioned the whisky market two decades down the line and drafted a “Brand Value Creation Roadmap” for Kirin Whisky, charting a course for sustainable growth and renewed pride in our legacy.
Following the roadmap, I established clear frameworks covering product planning, release schedules, planned events, new whisky development initiatives, and R&D-driven technological advancements. I even included what some might call a bold—and admittedly a bit fanciful—ambition to win the world’s top award in a particular year (laughs). But that goal of winning such a prestigious prize isn’t just wishful thinking; it’s entirely unattainable without the steady accumulation of high-quality whiskies and diligent product development underpinning it all.
Looking back, I realize the roadmap I created had its rough edges and some naive elements.
Yet when I presented it in a small conference room, the head of the corporate planning department at the time simply said, “This is interesting—let’s give it a try.” From there, it took about two years to form a working group dedicated to developing a long-term business plan, engaging in countless discussions with various departments along the way. Amidst this process, in 2017, I was appointed Master Blender, and we also won a prestigious global whisky award—an epoch-making milestone that dramatically shifted the momentum within the company. One tangible result of these efforts was the decision in 2018 to invest roughly 8 billion yen to expand production at the Fuji Gotemba Distillery, marking a significant step forward resulting from that collective vision and hard work.
Ultimately, it took a full decade to change the situation. Put another way, if you persist for ten years, you can fundamentally transform the circumstances. Recently, we have successfully launched a single malt whisky that genuinely satisfies me—a success that is the result of having started a new style malt whisky development a decade ago.
At the Four Roses Distillery, I experienced firsthand the fascinating craft of Bourbon whiskey-making and witnessed the joy and awe that our compelling spirits inspired in customers. I wanted to bring that same passion and inspiration to Kirin. During my time at Kirin-Seagram, I encountered people deeply devoted to the world of wine and spirits, and their passion left a lasting impression on me. I feel it is my responsibility to honor that passion and carry it forward.
Igniting the Heart with a Vision: In Pursuit of Whiskies That Inspire the Soul
My passionate mission is to ignite a lasting fire in people’s hearts. Honestly, I never imagined I would be involved in whisky-making myself—in fact, I didn’t even know there was such a profession as a blender existed. Yet through compelling experiences that make you want to dive in and be part of it, people’s passion grows. Now, I feel it’s my turn to create those defining moments that inspire others.
To make this a reality, I actively share information both inside and outside the company, striving to inspire people to think, “I want to work with Jota-san,” or at least to appreciate how fascinating the whisky business can be.
I am delighted to see more and more people within the company recently expressing a desire to be involved in whisky-making. What’s also encouraging is that our sales team has started to approach whisky sales with genuine enjoyment. I received an email from a sales representative in a regional area who said, “Jota-san, I’ve recently come to appreciate whisky more, and that has made my sales activities more engaging. As a result, deals have been closing more smoothly.” Reading that message moved me deeply. These small signs make it clear that whisky’s presence and role within the company are gradually becoming stronger.
Kirin’s employees are smart and highly capable, yet honestly, I sometimes wish they embraced a more heartfelt, down-to-earth approach rather than treating customers as mere data points or numbers. It’s crucial to prioritize real, human connections with the people right in front of you, rather than perceiving customers as distant concepts. Across the spirits industry, the most beloved brands are supported by charismatic individuals—passionate, driven teams that truly capture the hearts of their customers.
People often talk about “action first,” and while I understand its appeal, I believe that before taking action, one must first have clear aspirations and a vision for what they want to achieve. Without that heartfelt conviction, it’s impossible to inspire others and drive meaningful change. Yes, action should follow quickly, but it cannot come before a heartfelt purpose.
At the Fuji Gotemba Distillery, there has been a long-standing ideal guiding our whisky-making since the very beginning: the pursuit of “Clean and Estery” character. Although I didn’t work alongside the first master blender for a long time, his influence on me was profound. I make it a point to ensure that the blenders who come after me not only understand but also embody this ideal, engaging in ongoing discussions and continually honing their expertise.
As Kirin handles a diverse range of alcoholic beverages, it’s essential for both the company and its people to truly appreciate their appeal. Whisky is something that resonates deeply and inspires the soul, bringing joy to everyday life.
The whisky I aspire to create is one that inspires the soul—a spirit that moves the heart with every sip.
As we pursue this ideal, our medium- to long-term plan for domestically produced whisky aims to establish “Fuji” within 20 years as one of the world’s finest whiskies -recognized by consumers globally for its beautifully crafted taste.
The whisky market is currently experiencing a global boom, and I feel a strong and pressing sense of concern about the challenges ahead. I expect competition to intensify, and for the market to enter a phase of consolidation and shakeout. Regardless of what the future holds, I am dedicated to building an organization resilient enough to withstand these pressures and continue thriving. I firmly believe that by cultivating our team’s passion and technical mastery, our customers remain loyal to our brand.
Release date: July 19, 2024
Contents, affiliation, position, etc. are as of the time of publication
- Photo by Yuji Ueno
- Text by Kento Hasegawa
- Edited by Ai Hanazawa, RIDE Inc.